French pâté is in fact easier to make than my grandmother’s chopped liver, which called for rendering chicken fat. Here, you just soften onions in butter, cook the livers, cool, purée and refrigerate. You don’t have to bother with soaking the livers in milk, a step found in many recipes. Season aggressively: you want to taste the pepper, the coriander, the brandy and even the allspice and clove. Finally, cook the liver quickly, over pretty high heat. What you want is to brown the outside…